I wake up at around 07:15. The sun is only just starting to appear. I check the surf. There is a small wave, on the bigger sets, as predicted by magicseaweed.com. It is a little too small for my surfboards. If I had a longboard I would definitely go in. I do wish I had bought my longboard. But, this would have prevented me from improving on smaller surfboards, and a longboard would have been difficult to carry in the van. Next time, with a bigger van, I will definitely bring my longboard.

I went down to Towan beach. It was busy, and the tide was high, so there wasn't a lot of room. I drove around to Tolcarne beach. I have found several roads where I can always find a parking spot. I walked to the cliff top. The waves looked great. There where lots of people, including holiday makers enjoying the sunshine and waves. It was crowded though.

I walked down and jumped in. The swell was very strong. It was messy at times which made it hard selecting waves to surf. Several surfers where riding the very big waves at the break. As big waves broke and the white water hit the rocks around the bay, the energy from the waves rebounded and echoed off the bay walls and across the bay.  I found myself on several occasions being hit by sideways moving water. After a few waves, and lots of paddling I decided to try Great Western. I couldn't see the conditions from Tolcarne, and the tide was too high to allow me to paddle around. However, I had noticed from the top that the access road was much closer than I had thought.

I surfed Tolcarne beach for the first time today.  The surf was clean and a good size.  The breaks where consistent and the waves where a very good shape.  There where only a few other people on the entire beach, so I pretty much had the whole place to myself.

I have been practicing Chi Kung for about a week now, and attended a yoga class last week.  I have found my balance has improved greatly, which has helped my standing up on the board a lot.

When surfing at the Newquay town beaches it can be hard to find somewhere to park.  I parked on a back street, and found a space quite easily.  I have no doubt I shall surf there again soon.

Although it was messy, it was great to get into the water.  There where some good waves.

I found the water very cold when I first went in and ducked my head.  I had just a summer wetsuit and regular long sleeved rash vest on.  I think I should use my new (used) winter wetsuit in future.

2 feet at Crantock.  It was a little messy and the waves where not very consitent.  I didn't have a very satisfying surf.  The current was very strong, so I had to do a lot of paddling.  My arms are aching as I type this.

Surfed at Watergate, the waves where really good. 

I went out early to Towan beach.  There where good waves.  As there where not many surfers about I swam over to Great Western, and nearly to Tolcarn.

I took my nephew Daniel (10) to Great Western beach.  It was the first time he had used a hard board.  We got him to confidently controlling the board and catching waves kneeling.  The tide reached its highest point, reducing the beach to a very small area.  It got too crowded so we called it a day.

We stashed the board and jumped over waves afterward for fun.

There where some good waves today.  Whilst it was frustraing not being able to surf myself, I was great to see Daniel learn so quickly.

I surfed at Towan beach again today.  The waves where a little cleaner than yesterday.  The swell was also a little smaller and the winds had dropped.  There where still occasional big waves, which add some swimming fun.

I used my summer wetsuit as the winter wetsuit is still wet from yesterday.  It was warm enough, although I did feel a little cold at the end, but would happily do it again.  Its much easier to paddle wearing the summer wetsuit rather than the winter wetsuit.

The swell looks flat for the next few days.  Its looking strong for the weekend though.

I am borrowing a friends winter wetsuit, which proved hard to paddle in, but very protective.  I bought a thermal rash vest and boots.  Getting in is not hard, it doesn't feel so cold.  Even getting your head wet is ok. 

I had a great surf today.  Its been stormy for a while, and Fistral and the other exposed beaches are big (6ft) but really messy.  Towan beach is sheltered on the right side for todays winds.

Towan beach was crowded.  The waves where dumping, and I got hit a couple of times.  It was a great surf though.  I know where to park and how to get to Towan quickly.