Surf conditions
The surf conditions will probably make the biggest difference to a surfing experience on any given day. The surf conditions are determined by many things.
The weather
The wind will play the biggest part in determining the quality of the surf conditions. The wind will determine how the waves break, and for many the type of surfboard to use. If the wind is offshore (blowing across the land towards the ocean), the waves will break more slowly and gracefully. Offshore winds up to 20mph generally improve conditions. Winds in excess of 20mph can make the waves break up. Onshore winds (winds blowing from the ocean and onto the land) make the waves break more quickly, causing them to close out. Offshore winds generally improve surfing conditions. Sunshine and rain won’t affect the surf conditions, but they will change they way we feel!
The tide
The tide will play a big part in determining the shape of the waves. This is because a wave breaks when it travels into shallow water. The contour of the ocean floor will determine how quickly the wave curls, and the shape of the curl. As the tide changes the contour of the ocean floor where the waves are breaking will change, thus changing the shape of the wave. There is no general rule for the tide. Beaches tend to work at low, mid or high tide, or often a combination of each. Some reef breaks only work when the tides are at their highest. This is because a larger volume of water is required to make the wave curl.
The weather at sea
Waves are created by wind blowing onto a body of water. The winds transfer energy into the water. This energy will ‘roll’ until it runs out or travels into or over something. This applies to lakes as well as oceans. See lake surfing or river surfing. This process is called fetch. Surfers take advantage of the rolling energy, the swell, passing over a beach or reef, and the waves breaking into a good shape for surfing.
Clean surf conditions
Clean surf conditions are when everything is right. The swell will be consistent and of a good size (between 3 and 20 feet). The wind will be offshore, causing the waves to ‘stand up’ and break more slowly. Ideally the waves will come in sets.
Messy surf conditions
Messy surf conditions are caused by onshore winds. The waves break quickly, called closing out, and generally inconsistently. Messy surf conditions are not generally good for surfing.
If you live in an area with several different beach types you may be able to always find a beach with good conditions.
Choppy surf conditions
Choppy waves are rough and they do not break cleanly.This is caused by winds, generally cross winds. Choppy conditions are generally not good for surfing.
Flat surf conditions
Flat surf conditions are when there is no surf, or only tiny surf. This happens when the conditions at sea are calm. Without the wind at sea there is no fetch, which means there is no surf at the beach.
Stormy surf conditions
Story surf conditions occur when it is stormy at the surfing point, and not only at sea. When it is stormy at the beach the winds will be very strong, and probably changing direction.This will cause a big swell, but the waves will be messy and choppy. Surfing in stormy conditions is definitely not recommended.
The Seasons
The seasons often make a big difference in the surf conditions. The summer generally brings cleaner but smaller waves. The winter generally brings bigger swell on a greater number of days. However the chance or strong winds will make more days messy, choppy or stormy.